Tips

Experienced collectors know that the quality and craftsmanship of bygone days make antique jewelry rare and enviable. Shelley’s skilled appraisers and goldsmiths are specialists in evaluating and restoring antique pieces to the exacting standards of fine collectors. Here are some tips to consider when purchasing antique or estate jewelry:

Tip 1:

Before wax casting became a modern invention, antique jewelry was hand-made. When examining great filigree jewelry from the early 1900’s to 1930’s, you should always ask your jeweler to show the piece under a microscope. You should see tool marks between the filigree sections that indicate hand crafting. If you see pits, bubbles, or swirl marks, the piece is a reproduction.

Tip 2:

"Modern cut" diamonds are a post-1930 technique. If your 1920 hand made filigree jewelry has a modern cut diamond, it is NOT the original diamond. And while the modern cut diamond may be worth more than the original diamond, antique fanciers often want an original.

Tip 3:

Three places on antique rings that take a lot of wear are the shank, prongs and undercarriage.

Shank

This is the part of a ring that goes around your finger, and which has often worn thin on antique jewelry. It should be built up to original thickness before wearing.

Prongs

These are the small pieces of gold or platinum that hold the diamond and/or gemstones in the mounting. They are usually the first thing to wear away. Be sure your jeweler has a goldsmith gifted in antique restoration and have him check it and perform any needed adjustments.

Undercarriage

This is the side of the ring, on top of the finger. If a wedding band was worn beside it, the undercarriage is probably worn, likely affecting the strength of the ring. Have the antique restorer inspect the ring and perform any needed repairs.